Chromata cocoon cardigan: How to crochet cocoon cardigan

Have you ever bought a fabulously variegated hand-dyed yarn and later have no idea on how to make use of them? Well, the best way to bring out the best of such yarn is to crochet a project with the basic of the stitches.

Chromata cardigan is a crochet cocoon cardigan that is designed using only chain and double crochet stitches with a twist.

Yarn used to make Chromata crochet cocoon cardigan

Name

Chroma means colours. The name Chromata indicates a variesty of colours in the yarn used to crochet this cocoon cardigan.

Yarn 

The yarn used in this cardigan is a highly variegated hand-dyed yarn that I purchased from my local yarn vendor. The yarn is so beautiful that I was waiting for a perfect design to bring out the best of the colours in it. 

It was only later I realized beauty lies in simplicity

Construction of crochet cocoon cardigan

Chromata cardigan is made from a rectangle piece, folded and joined leaving out the arm hole. It is then finished by crocheting the edging.

The twist here is, the rectangle is neither made along the length nor width, but crocheted from one corner to another. A series of open-work rows is followed by a row of solid stitches while making this C2C rectangle.

Instructions are included to customize the cardigan to your own size. I fall around a standard medium size or size 3. I made my cardigan oversized but it could easily fit up-to size extra-large. But you can easily fit to your measurements. I would advice you to give at least 2” positive ease in your measurements to accommodate fold-overs.

For guides on standard measurement, visit HERE

Pre-requisites

Materials

  • Yarn: DK weight cotton or bamboo yarn 1050 m
  • Crochet hook: 5 mm and 5.5 mm
  • Stitch markers – 4
  • Yarn Needle

Abbreviation

  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • beg.dc2tog – ch2, sk1, dc in next st
  • dc2tog – double crochet 2 placed together, skipping one stitch in between the legs.
  • dc3tog – double crochet 3 placed together (each leg in one stitch)
  • beg.dc3tog – beginning double crochet 3 placed together (ch2, dc2tog with no skipping stitches in between)
  • slst – slip stitch
  • sk – skip
  • st – stitch    

Gauge

Using 5.5 mm hook, 13sts in 7 rows of dc is 4’’.

Notes

Ch3 in the beginning of the row is considered as one double crochet.

Ch4 in the beginning of the round is considered as one double crochet and ch1.

Turn after every round, unless specified.

The side in which you make the solid double crochet row is the right side.

Pattern Instructions

Start using 5.5mm crochet hook.

Part 1

Increasing on both sides to get the length and width of the rectangle.

R1:ch4, 4dc in the 1st ch

R2: ch4, dc in the same st, (ch1, sk1, dc) till the end, ch1, dc in the last st.

R3-R6: Repeat R2

R7: ch3, 2dc in the same st, dc in each stitch across until the last st, 3dc in the last st.

Repeat R2 to R7, 5 more times or until the desired height of the cardigan.

Part 2

Increasing on one side to get desired length of the rectangle and decreasing on other to maintain the width of the rectangle (height of the cardigan)

R1: beg.dc2tog, (ch1, sk1, dc) till the end, ch1, dc in the last st,

R2: ch4, dc in the same st, (ch1, sk1, dc) until last 3 sts, sk1, dc2tog on last 2sts skipping the ch in between.

R3-R4: Repeat R1-R2

R5: Repeat R1

R6: ch3, 2dc in the same st, dc in each st across until the last 3st, dc3tog in the last sts.

Repeat R1-R6 one more time or until the desired length of the triangle.

Part 3

Decreasing on both sides to form a full rectangle.

R1: beg.dc2tog, (ch1, sk1, dc) till the end leaving the last  2dc, dc2tog on last 2dc.

R2-R5: Repeat R1

R6: beg dc3tog, dc until the last 3 sts, dc3tog in last three sts.

Repeat R1-R6, 5 more times or the number of times you repeated in part 1

Next rows: Repeat R1-R5

Last row: ch2, dc4tog.

Fasten off. Bock the piece well before proceeding to join.

Chromata Crochet cocoon cardigan reference picture

My rectangle measures 40’’ by 30’’

Joining

With right side facing up, lay the rectangle piece flat. (Refer pic)

Fold the piece along the width of the rectangle. Now, the wrong side is facing you

From the folded end, measure about 7.5’’ (or any comfortable measure) for the sleeve opening and place stitch marker to secure both pieces.

Secure the end with stitch marker as well. (Refer pic)

Repeat on the other side.

Attach yarn to the join in one of the stitch markers and slip stitch to join until the end. Repeat this on the other side too.

Once done, turn your piece to the right side facing out and proceed to the edging.

Sleeve edging

With the right side facing, join yarn anywhere in one of the sleeve opening.

Ch2 (does not count as st), dc uniformly along the edge (take note of the stitch count). Join to first dc. Fasten off.

Repeat on the other sleeve. Make sure the stitch count is the same on both sleeves.

Front edging

Attach yarn anywhere in the front opening of the cardigan.

Ch2 (does not count as st), dc uniformly along the edge. Join to first dc. Fasten off.

Weave in all the ends.

And now go ahead and dress-up with some basics and flaunt your Chromata cardigan.

If you like crochet cocoon cardigans like I do, check out my other design, Elegance in Elements cardigan

Chromata crochet cocoon cardigan

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Pentas shawl: Lustrously light crochet shawl for the summer

What if I tell that you can crochet a full length shawl that weight less than 200g without compensating the stitch definition?

Of course, I am going to tell you that. And it is possible to make such a shawl.

Introducing, the Pentas Shawl, a free crochet shawl pattern for summer. It is unbelievable light and chic to wear.

Inspiration

Well, my inspiration for this crochet shawl pattern was my necessity. I wanted a shawl to amp-up my Indian kurtis and leggings outfit. I wanted it to be modern, light without compromising on the stitch-definition. I ended up with a stitch pattern that meets all of my needs.

I enhanced the design with a simple border on all sides and that is how Pentas shawl came into existence, as a free crochet shawl pattern for summer.

Check out Sanctuary of Shells scarf if looking for summer scarf. 

Name and Design

Pentas is a tropical flower with five petals. The lacy design of the shawl mimics the structure of a five-petal flower and thus the Pentas Shawl received it’s name.

The shawl is designed with less than two cakes of Scheepjes whirlette and this makes it so light weight to wear. If you don’t know Scheepjes whirl and whirlettes are one of my favourite yarns to work with.

The Wanderlust shawlette is also designed with one cake of whirlette.

crochet shawl for summer free patten

Now let’s dive into making our shawl. The pattern is a very easy to make that uses only a few simple stitches. It is written in US terminology

Materials

  • Scheepjes whirlette – 2 cakes of same colour
  • Crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry Needle

Gauge

17 sts in 7 rows of tr is 4’’

Finished Dimension

72’’ long and 23’’ wide

Abbreviation

  • R – row
  • st – stitch
  • slst – slip stitch
  • sp – space
  • ch – chain
  • sc – single crochet
  • 5dc-tog – 5 double crochet stitches placed together
  • tr – treble crochet
  • 3tr-tog – 3 treble crochet stitches placed together

Notes

  • Beginning ch4 is considered as treble crochet.
  • Ch1 in the beginning of the row does not count as a stitch.
  • Turn after every row unless specified.
  • The shawl is worked seamlessly from the beginning to end, up to the border.

You can get the printable version of the pattern containing crochet stitch chart for the pattern and stitch multiples for customizable shawl and scarf dimensions, from my Ravelry store HERE

Instructions

Chain 127

R1: tr in the 7th ch from the hook, *ch3, sk4, sc in the next st, ch3, sk4, (tr, ch5, tr) in the next st* repeat until 10sts left, ch3, sk4, sc in the next st, ch3, sk4, (tr, ch2, tr) in the last st

R2: ch1, sc on same tr, ch3, (tr, ch5, tr) in the next sc, *ch3, sc into the 3rd ch of next ch5, ch3, (tr, ch5, tr) in the next sc* repeat until the last sc, ch3, sc in the 4th ch (last tr).

R3: ch6, tr in the same sc, ch3, sc into the 3rd ch of ch5, *ch3, (tr, ch5, tr) in the next sc, ch3, sc into the 3rd ch of next ch5* repeat until last ch5, ch3, (tr, ch2, tr in the last sc.

Repeat R2 and R3, 73 times or until desired length.

Note: The number of repetitions should be an odd number.

Do not turn after the last row and continue with the border.

I. Working along the long side of the shawl,

Ch1, sc on the last tr of the last row, *ch2, ({5dc-tog, ch2} twice, 5dc-tog) in the next sc, ch2, sc in the next sc* repeat until the end. Do not turn.

Note: The last sc falls on the base of the last tr from R1

II. Working along the starting chains of the shawl,

Ch1, sc in the same st as last sc, *sk4, (3tr-tog, ch4, 3tr-tog) in the next st, sk4, sc in the next st* repeat until the end. Do not turn

Note: The last sc fall on the base of the first tr st from R1.

III. Working along the other long side of the shawl,

Ch1, sc in the same st as last sc , *ch2, ({5dc-tog, ch2} twice, 5dc-tog) in the next sc, ch2, sc in the next sc* repeat until the end. Do not turn.

Note: The last sc falls on the 4th ch from the starting of the last row.

IV. Working along the last row of the shawl,

Ch1, ss in the same st as last sc, *(3tr-tog, ch4, 3tr-tog) in the next sc, sc into the 3rd ch of next ch5* repeat until the end.

Note, the last sc falls on the last tr of last row.

Ch1, slst into the next sc.

Fasten off and weave in the ends. Block the shawl well to get a perfect shape.

crochet shawl for summer free pattern

And your Pentas shawl is ready flaunt. I style mine with my Indian wear – churidar leggings and kurtis. I can’t wait to see how you are going to style yours. When you post them on socials, do tag me and use hashtags #yarnnmedesigns and #yarnnmemakers.

Want a print-friendly version? Get your copy HERE

Now, enjoy making your Pentas shawl, the free crochet shawl pattern for summer.

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Take it Easy tote: Time to make yourself an everyday crochet tote bag using leather base

We all have crocheted different tote bags, but always wanted to get those designer bags kind of finish which we hardly achieve. Yes, the struggle is true. Achieving a sturdy base as those designer totes is quite difficult with crochet. 

But, don’t worry, in this blog post accompanied by a free crochet tote bag pattern using leather bag base, I’ve got it covered. With this pattern, you can get a sturdy bag base of an everyday tote bag and the fell and elegance of a handmade product.

Get to know about the Take it Easy crochet tote bag pattern

Take it Easy tote pattern is an everyday tote bag pattern made with leather/faux-leather bag base and handles. You just have to start the bag by crocheting over the existing bag base and start constructing your body. In this way we can get a sturdy base and use lesser yarn as compared to crocheting your base.

Take it easy tote: crochet tote bag using leather bag base

The stitch pattern in this design is very simple. It only uses double crochet, single crochet and chain stitches.

The stitch pattern is in multiples of two and therefore you easily can manipulate the pattern for any size and shape of your bag base. 

As for the yarn used, I used polyester sport weight yarn in variegated colour and a complementing  solid colour. You can use yarn from any weight category for this pattern. Just make sure the stiches are neither too cramped nor loosely fabricated.

Click HERE for bag base tutorial

Materials

  • Yarn: Sport weight variegated yarn 400m (A) and sport weight solid colour yarn in complementary  colour 400m (B)
  • Crochet hook 3mm
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  • Tote bag handle
  • Tote base

Gauge is not crucial for the pattern. Just make sure that stitches are close enough to form a thick fabric.

Abbreviations

  • ch – chain
  • sc – single crochet
  • cdc – chainless double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • dc3rd loop – double crochet in the 3rd loop
  • sp – space
  • sk – skip
  • slst – slip stitch

Finished Dimension

The width of the crochet tote depends on the dimension of the faux-leather base.

The height varies based on our individual preferences.

Instructions

Base

To crochet over the leather base, refer the tutorial in the blog post HERE

While doing the set up row,

Use yarn A for the foundation row and yarn B for the set up row.

Make sure that the total stitch count of the set up row is multiples of 2.

Body

Continue with colour B

Row 1: ch2 (does not count as st), dc3rd loop in each stitch across. Join with slst to the first dc3rd loop.

Row 2-5: Repeat row 1

Switch to yarn A while joining with slst in row 5

Row 6: cdc, dc in the same st, *sk next stitch, 2dc in next stitch* repeat till the end. Join with slst to cdc using yarn B.

crochet tote bag with leather base: bag body diagram

Row 7: ch1 (does not count as st), sc in the space between cdc and previous dc, *ch1, sc in next sp between two 2dc* repeat till the end. Join with slst to first sc using yarn A.

Row 8: cdc, dc in first ch1-sp, *2dc in next ch1-sp* repeat till the end. Join with slst to cdc using yarn B.

Repeat Row 7-8 until you reach 1” less than your desired height.

Next Row: Using yarn B, ch2 (does not count as st), 2dc in the space between cdc and previous dc, *2dc in next sp between two 2dc* repeat till the end.

Next Row: Repeat Row 1 two times using yarn B. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Attach the tote bag handles to the finished product.

Add lining and zipper if necessary.

This stitch pattern can be used without lining as an open tote as well.

In this sample, I have used an instant bag lining with attached handles.

More crochet tote patterns

Pivoting Peaks tote

Diamond Bobble tote

And there you have it, Take it easy tote, your crochet tote bag with leather bag base ready to be flaunted. Now you can also make bags and purses with the structure of a designer bag and the personality of a handmade crocheted touch.

Make sure to tag me while posting your finished tote bag patterns and use hashtags #yarnnmedesigns #yarnnmemakers. I can’t wait to see them.

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Crochet Bag with leather base: How to crochet with the base – the ultimate step-by-step tutorial

Crocheting an impressive and handy everyday bag can be quite challenging because of two reasons – getting a good base from crocheting and finding the right stitch for your crochet bag. With is step-by-step instructions from this post on crochet bag with leather base, I would say more than 50% of your bag is tackled with just your bag base. Be it any shape and size of the ready-to-use bag base you can lay your hands on, I have got you covered.

Why crochet on a leather/faux leather bag base?

Of course you can make your bag by crocheting it from the base. But hear me out why you need a ready-to-use bag base for your crochet everyday bag

1. It it going to cut down on the yarn requirement

Obviously, when you crochet your bag right from the base, you are going to need more yarn. Especially for the base, the yarn requirement is going to be higher since the stitches have to be made so tight closely together.

By using a base like this, your finished product is going to be lighter still retaining the handmade elegance.

2. Your bag will have a sturdy base and a beautiful structure

The leather/faux-leather base is going to give you a sturdy and string base which is a little challenging to get from a crocheted bag base with minimal yarn usage. Therefore bag base is the way to go.

In this tutorial, I am using a faux- leather soft rectangle bag base of the dimension 30cm by 10cm that I purchased from Yarnholic, an online-based yarn shop available here in Singapore. This method works for all varieties and shapes of base.

Choosing the right hook

The good/right side of the base looks polished and have the colour of the case (in some models even the wrong side has the colour).

Which choosing the hook to crochet for the base, choose the hook size that fits in the holes in the base. 

crochet bag with leather base- choosing the right hook size
Crochet bag with leather base: the sides

In my case, I am using a sport weight yarn that will give a tight and defined stitch with 3mm crochet hook. Besides, a 3mm crochet hook moves freely in and our of the bag base I use.

In most bases the holes are bigger and in few types the holes are much smaller. In case a smaller holes, use a hook that fits and moves in and out of the base, and need not struggle trying with a bigger hook to correspond the yarn you are using.

How to start crocheting over the leather bag base

Step 1

Make a slip knot. The knot should be approximately the length between two adjacent holes in the base.

Step 2

With the right side of the base facing you, pull your slipstitch through the middle hole (approximately) on the short side of the rectangle base

Note: If you are using a square base or a round base, the place of the hole you start does not matter.

Step 3

Insert the hook into your next adjacent hole, careful not to bring your knot to the right side.

Note: for right handed crocheters, the adjacent loop will be on the left side and left handed crocheters on the right

Crochet bag with leather base: step-by-step instruction

Step 4

Yarn over and pull up a loop approximately the length between two adjacent holes.

Step 5 & 6

Continue step 3 and 4 until the last hole.

Finishing off the bag base

Now that you have made the foundation, let us complete the space between the first and last worked holes of the bag base, fasten off and finish.

Step 7

Snip the yarn leaving a tail of about 5” and pull through the last worked hole

Step 8

Thread the end on a yarn needle and insert the needle into the first formed chain. (refer picture below)

Step 9 & 10

Pull the needle through the first chain and insert into the last worked hole in the chain

Step 11 & 12

Turn to your wrong side and secure both the yarns tails by knotting them together.

crochet bag with leather base- finishing off

While making the base chain do take care not to make these stitches, 

  1. too tight that you cannot make stitches in them or
  2. too loose that the are in the condition of coming apart from the base

Now that we have completed the foundation chain over the bad base, we have continue making the set-up row before we actually go on crocheting our body of the bag. Because each of the chains can hold about two to four stitches.

The number of stitches in each of these chains depends on, the distance between two adjacent holes and, the size and weight of hook and yarn respectively.

crochet bag with leather base- Sides

The foundation row of the crochet bag with leather base

1. Switch to the  crochet hook (that suits your yarn weight) you want to make your bag

2. Join yarn to the top loop of the middle chain in any of the shorter sides. This ensures that your join is not visible when you actually wear your bag.

3. Chain 2 and make three double crochet in the same chain, only in the top lool.

4. Make 3 double crochet in each of the chains, only in the top loop.

Note: This number may vary for you. Just make sure that the number of stitches in each chain is just nice to fill the entire chain.  Too many stitches may make the body of the bag wobbly and too less chain may shrink the base and body of the bag.

5. In the chains present in four corners, place four double crochets each. 9refer image below)

Note: This is not applicable for a round bag base.

The principle here is to make more stitches at the corner to accommodate the curve in the sides. 

crochet bag with leather base- foundation row

While deciding on the number of stitches to place in each chain, make sure the total number of stitches is equivalent to the stitch multiples of the stitch pattern you are intending to use for the body of the bag. The calculation has to be done prior to making the stitches. 

This is how you make the base of the crochet bag with leather base.

For more bag and tote patterns check out the Pivoting Peaks tote and the Granny Square base tote bags

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Keep it Simple Produce Bag – Simple yet versatile bag for your fruits and Veggies- free crochet pattern

Keep it simple crochet produce bag is a free pattern and also a bonus pattern in the Granny Square Base tote bag series. The stitch pattern here is very much like the Keep it simple tote. It is light yet sturdy, simple and quick to make. It is a great substitute for your single use plastic produce bags, we usually use at markets. 

Pattern level

Easy

Materials

Yarn: 100%cottom sport weight yarn: 100-160m of main colour and about 10m of accent colour

Crochet hook: 3.25 mm

Yarn Needle

Scissors

Stitch marker – 1

Abbreviations

ch – chain

R – round

sc – single crochet

slst – slip stitch

sk – skip

sp – space

st(s) – stitch(es)

Special stitch

Foundation knot. Find the stitch tutorial here

Gauge

18dc in 10 rows is 4”

Finished dimension

9” wide, 8.5” (small size) and 11.5’’ (large size) long

Note

  • The bag is worked in rounds. So, there is no turning after every round
  • Ch1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch

The print-friendly version of the pattern is available of my Ravelry Store HERE

Get the pattern for free with the purchase of Diamond Bobble Tote

Instruction

The produce bag is worked bottom up and the final product is lightly gusseted. So, the first two rounds form the base of the bag.

Foundation knot 45

R1: (cdc, ch1, dc) in the first st, *ch1, sk1, dc* repeat until before the last two sts, sk1, (ch1, dc) thrice on the last st, working on the other side of the foundation knot, *ch1, sk1, dc* till the last st, ch1. Join with slst to cdc. [48dc]

R2: (cdc, ch1, dc) on cdc, ch1, (dc, ch1, dc) on next dc, *ch1, dc on next dc* 21 times, *ch1, (dc, ch1, dc) on next dc* thrice, *ch1, dc on next dc* 21 times, ch1, (dc, ch1, dc) on next dc, ch1. Join with slst to cdc. [54dc]

R3: cdc, ch1, (dc on next dc, ch1) repeat till the end. Join with slst to cdc. [54dc]

Repeat R3 till R20 for a small produce bag and till R28 for large produce bag.

Fasten off.

Join accent colour to the same stitch as join.

Next round: ch1, sc in each stitch till the end. Join with slst to first sc. [108sc]

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Drawstring

Ch123

10sc on 2nd ch from hook, slst120, insert marker in the working loop.

With the other end, insert the string in and out of the 2nd dc row from top and bring both ends to front as the centre.

Remove marker

Ch1, 10sc on the last ch. Join with slst to the ch. Fasten off and knot the starting and ending tail together and weave in.

 And now, your produce bag is ready to take out for shopping. 

Thanks a ton for your invaluable support. I hope that you enjoyed making this pattern. Make multiples of them and keep them handy. 

If you share your project on Instagram, please tag me, and post it with the hashtags #yarnnmedesigns and #ecofriendlycrochetfor2021. I would love to see your creation.

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Linen stitch tote: Another easy crochet market tote in the series

Linen stitch tote, is yet another easy crochet market tote bag pattern in the series after the Keep it Simple tote. Unlike the latter, linen stitch tote is constructed with a pretty solid stitch making the fabric denser than its predecessors.

A sport weight yarn is used in this pattern as well, but the hook size has been increased for two reasons – 1) not to make the bag too heavy, 2) to get a flowy fabric and not a stiff one. The density of the fabric is achieved by the single crochet stitches.  

Pattern level

Easy 

Materials

 Yarn: 100%cottom sport weight yarn about 400m

 Crochet hook: 3.75 mm or any size to obtain the gauge

 Yarn Needle

 Scissors

 Stitch markers: 8

 Abbreviations

 ch – chain 

fsc – foundation single crochet 

R – round 

sc – single crochet 

sc blo – single crochet in the back loop only 

slst – slip stitch 

sk – skip 

sp – space

 st(s) – stitch(es) 

Special Stitches 

sc2tog – two single crochet placed together 

*insert hook into the next chain space, pull up a loop* one more time, three loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all through three loops. 

Gauge 

The base measures 4” after round 10

Finished dimension

Base: 10” square

Height: 17” from tip centre of the base to the point where handles are attached when laid flat (excluding the handles)

You can get the print-friendly version of the pattern HERE

Note

The tote is worked in rounds. So, there is no turning after every round

ch1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch

slst to the next ch2-sp to begin the next round

Instruction

Base

Magic ring 

R1: ch1, *sc, ch2, sc, ch1* four times. Join with slst to first sc 

R2: ch1, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp, ch1, sc in next ch1-sp, ch1* repeat 3 more times. Join with slst to first sc. 

R3: ch1, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp, (ch1,sc in the next ch1 sp) until the last ch1-sp, ch1* repeat 3 more times. Join with slst to the first sc. 

R4-R26: Repeat R3  

You can increase or decrease the number of repeats for the larger or smaller base of the tote. Make sure the total number of rows is an even number 

Lay your square flat. 

Place a stitch marker on the 13th and 14th ch1-sp on each side 

If you have altered the size, find the sc in the centre of each side and place a stitch marker in the ch1-sp before and after the sc. 

If the base looks a little off shape, you can block light.

 

granny square base tote bag_linen stitch tote

Body

R1: ch1, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp, (ch1, sc in next ch1-sp) until before the marked ch1-sp, ch1, sc2tog, ch1, (sc in next ch1-sp, ch1) till the last ch1-sp of the corner* repeat 3 more times. Join with slst to the first sc.

Place markers on ch1-sps before and after sc2tog

R2-R32: Repeat R1

You can increase or decrease the repeats to alter the height

R33: ch1, sc in ch2-sp, *ch1, fsc70, sc in next ch2-sp, (ch1, sc in next ch1-sp) until before the marked ch1-sp, ch1, sc2tog, ch1, (sc in next ch1-sp, ch1) till the last ch1-sp of the corner* sc in ch2-sp, repeat ** once more. Join with slst to the first sc.

Place markers on ch1-sps before and after sc2tog

R34: slst to the next fsc, ch1, *scblo70, (ch1, sc in the next ch1 sp) until before the marked ch1-sp, ch1, sc2tog, ch1, (sc in next ch1-sp,ch1) till the last ch1 sp of the corner, sk next sc* repeat once more. Join with slst to the first scblo.

Place markers on ch1-sps before and after sc2tog

R35: ch1, *scblo70, (sc in next ch1-sp, ch1, until before the marked ch1-sp, sc2tog, (ch1, sc in the next ch1 sp), till the last ch1 sp of the corner* repeat once more. Join with slst to the first scblo.

Place markers on ch1-sps before and after sc2tog

R36-38: Repeat R34-R35

Increase or decrease the repeats to desired thickness of handle.

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

And now, your tote is ready to take out for shopping.

For more similar tote bags, read more on this series HERE

Thanks a ton for your invaluable support. I hope that you enjoyed making this pattern.

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